Plan Hold Brand 5 Drawer Map Drawer Cabinet Label Templates

I have some super exciting things going on right now. First, if you lot follow me on Instagram or Facebook, you know that we moved into a new house a few months ago. In improver to remodeling the kitchen, the floors, and workshop area, I have been busy building furniture to fill the rooms.

This year also brings some new collaborations. I have the privilege of existence ane of the 2016 Brand Ambassadors, representing *Simpson Strong-Tie®. Strong-Tie products are the industry standard in structure. The odds are very good that the home you alive in was built using *Simpson Stiff-Necktie® connectors and fasteners. Anyone who has read this web log knows that I can be a bit of a perfectionist with my builds. I absolutely love the idea of working with a company who also doesn't settle for "good enough". I can't wait to bear witness yous the projects I take come up with, utilizing *Simpson Stiff-Tie® quality products! Today, I'll share the first.

I've been admiring false printermakers manner cabinets for a few years, so I figured this would exist the time to give it a shot. This cabinet is HUGE! 7 feet tall and almost 3 feet wide. It works perfectly for us as a linen closet, but information technology would brand a pretty sweetness armoire in a bedroom besides.

Materials Listing:

• (4) 2 10 2 x 96"
• (two) ane x ii x 96"
• (ii) 1 10 six x 96"
• (3) 1 10 four x 96"
• (8) ane x iii 10 96"
• (7) 1 x i x 96" pine trim (actual iii/4" ten 3/4")
• (1) i ten xviii x 48" - border glued panel
• (ane) iv' x 8'- canvas of 1/viii" hardboard
• (one) 4' x 8'- sheet of 3/4" plywood
• (ane) 2' x four' x 1/4"- plywood panel

Cut List:

3/4" plywood -

• (2) 12-three/four" 10 79-1/4"
• (3) xiv-1/four x 30-iii/four"

1 x xviii console -

• (ane) 12 3/4" 10 30-3/4"

one/8" hardboard -

• (1) 33-3/iv" 10 79- 1/4"

2 ten 2 -

• (4) 83-i/4"

1 x ii -

• (half dozen) xxx-3/4"

i x vi -

• (3) 33-3/iv"
• (v) five-1/2"

1 10 iv -

• (4) 35

1 x 3 -

• (22) xxx-one/2

1 x 1 -

• (xx) xxx-1/2

1. From the 2 ten 2's, cutting iv, 83-1/4" lengths.

two. Drill iii/iv" pocket holes around the top and sides of each 12-3/4 x 79-1/iv" ten iii/4" plywood console. Marshal each panel flush between 2 legs and adhere with *one-1/4" wafer head screws .

To avoid splitting, utilise wood screws with self-tapping tips.

iii. Drill two pocket holes on either end of each one x 2 rail. The rails connect the plywood panels together. The bottom of the lowest rails should be iv" from the bottom of each leg, and the elevation rails should be flush with the top of the legs. Attach the remaining two rails in the middle section of the front of the frame. Your openings should measure 35-1/4", v-3/4", and 35-1/iv".

iv. Flip the frame face down and measure opposite points to bank check for square. Attach i/viii" hardboard to frame with 1-1/4" wood screws or cease nails.

5. Pre-drill four holes on the bottom side of each pinnacle rail. Identify 1 x half dozen top boards tightly together on the meridian end of the frame. Attach with screws through pocket holes and pre-drilled holes in the rails.

6. Drill pocket holes around the perimeter of the 12 3/4" x 30-3/4" board. Marshal board between lesser runway and along the bottom border of plywood panels. Secure in place with 1-1/4" screws through the pocket holes.

Drill pocket holes along the front and both sides of one, 14-i/4 ten 30-3/four" plywood console. Align console behind the top, middle track and secure in place.

vii. To adjust large items, I wanted the remaining two shelves to exist floating and not fixed in place with screws. I chose four, *Simpson Strong-Necktie® A21 steel angle to back up each shelf. They are super, heavy-duty and cost merely $0.54 at my local Home Depot.

Yous tin place the floating shelves wherever you'd like. If you desire the shelf centered in the opening, attach the meridian of the bracket then it is 17-1/4" from the top of the opening. Attach each ZMAX subclass at least 1-one/2" from the front edge of the frame to allow for the doors. The remaining two, fourteen-1/iv x 30-3/4" 10 3/4" panels become your floating shelves.

8. To keep the doors from endmost likewise far into the cabinet, you lot will need to add a elementary cease block. In the top corner of the opening, opposite from they side you are planning to attach the hinges, pre-drill and attach a 1 x 1 x 2-1/2" block with ane-1/iv" screws, 3/4" from the front end edge of the frame.

ix. Measure the opening between the eye rails for your drawer box. Read the instructions on your drawer slides, merely typically you will desire to build your drawer box one" narrower than the opening. Y'all can follow this tutorial with the remaining ane x 4 boards and 1/4" plywood panel to construct the drawer box.

10. With the drawer box and stop blocks in place, you can build the doors and faux drawer forepart. I provided measurements for the doors below, merely make sure to mensurate your openings and test fit the doors before finishing.

For each door, alternate eleven, 1 x 3 x xxx-one/2" boards, and x, 1 x 1 boards. Apply glue to edges, align the boards, and clamp them together. Allow to dry out for several hours.

For the drawer face, alternate v-1/2" squares and 1 10 1 x 5-one/2" pieces. Apply glue to edges, align the boards, and clench them together. Allow to dry out for several hours.

11. When the doors are dry, flip them face up downwards. Measure out 4" from each side and marshal a 1 ten 4 ten 35" board. Brand sure the board is not taller than the door. If it is, just trim down the length to match the door'south tiptop. Attach ii boards to the back of each door with 1-1/4" brads. Try to get at least 2 brads into each slat of the door.

12. Now everything is built, but before you lot get together your gorgeous new cabinet, you will desire to finish it. I tried a new stain formula on mine. I mixed 1 quart  *Weathered Oak stain by Mixwax and about 4 tablespoons of  *Dark Walnut become stain by Varathane . In one case it was dry, I rubbed on two coats of  *paste wax.

13. In one case your finish is fully dry, you lot can mount the doors on the hinges. I used three, not-mortise jump hinges per door. The door is pretty heavy, then they demand the extra support. These hinges tin handle the extra load.

While hanging the doors, use shims to hold the doors in identify and aid keep a 1/8" gap around all 4 sides. Attach the simulated drawer face to the drawer box with i-1/4" screws driven through the behind.

14. There is a lot of hardware on this bad male child and it can add upwardly fast. Y'all volition need 49 knobs and 22 label holders. A good way to save money on knobs is to buy unfinished wood knobs and spray paint them any color you want. I've seen wood knobs online for as cheap as $0.20 each.

Measure from the outside edge of the cabinet, not the door to ensure your knobs and label holders all end up perfectly aligned.

Fill up the cabinet with any you need and that's it! Here's how mine turned out.

The drawer in the middle is perfect for minor things like pillowcases or socks.

Non quite sure why the colour on the imitation drawer confront turned out so differently. It received the exact same terminate, but that sometimes happens with different boards. I actually kind of similar it. I think information technology breaks up the big front facade.

Does it wait similar 27 footling drawers? Although I think antiquarian printer'due south cabinets are cool, I love all the storage of my version. What would y'all utilise information technology for? Feel free to pin the paradigm below.

*This postal service contains chapter links and sponsored content paid for by Simpson Strong-Tie®. All opinions are my ain and accept not been influenced.

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Source: https://www.pneumaticaddict.com/2016/01/tall-printers-cabinet.html

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